al·gae /ˈældʒi/ [al-jee]
Any of numerous groups of chlorophyll-containing, mainly aquatic eukaryotic organisms ranging from microscopic single-celled forms to multicellular forms 100 ft. (30 m) or more long, distinguished from plants by the absence of true roots, stems, and leaves and by a lack of nonreproductive cells in the reproductive structures: classified into the six phyla Euglenophyta, Crysophyta, Pyrrophyta, Chlorophyta, Phaeophyta, and Rhodophyta.
Introduction
Algae-cide, this page is where you can find data on the common algae that you find in a planted tank and a solution how you can overcome these unwanted guests in your community tank without the use of actual algaecides. Every tank has algae present in it and there is no such thing as an ‘algae-free’ tank that I personally have come across. What we see as an algae-free tank, it actually equates to this, good plant growth. Now, how does one maintain his/her tank to have stay “algae-free”? It all boils down to good fertilization, CO2 distribution and levels and also, maintenance. Additionally, reading up on the basics of these principles will help you better prepare yourself.
When I first started out my planted tank, I ran into all sorts of trouble. I had algae of different sorts, you name it, I had it.
Brown algae, green dust algae, green spot algae, black brush algae, hair algae, cladophora algae, green brush algae and the dreaded blue-green algae or rather known as cynobacteria. To be honest, I had little knowledge of handling algae and had even lesser knowledge on the CO2 distribution and fertilization regimes that I should have read up on. I learnt the hard way and now, am proud to say, I’ve “been there and done that” before.
Take note that what you read here and the methods and solutions that I provide, have been tested first hand by myself and is working well for me. If you have an alternative method of riding algae, please feel free to leave a comment below and I will give you the credit for your contribution. 
PPM
PPM stands for parts-per-million. If you’re lost about CO2 PPM rates, fret-not, CO2 PPM is a co-relation between the PH & KH levels of your tanks’ water. To measure the CO2 PPM of your current tanks’ parameters, get a PH & KH test kit and use Chadd’s site to view the CO2 PPM chart.
Please note that PH & KH test kits are not generally accurate and requires one to “calibrate” the test kits. If you need help on this, drop me an email. 
I’ve revamped my estimative index regime for my tank and I must say that the flora in the tank are doing so much more better and within minimal algae of any sort growing.
Here’s what I am currently dosing for my five-foot tank.
Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday
KNO3 – 1/2 teaspoon or 2.5ml per dose (dry form)
KH2PO4 – 1/4 teaspoon or 1.25ml per dose (dry form, heaped)
Monday, Wednesday, Friday
Seachem Flourish – 10ml per dose
Monday ONLY
Seachem Iron – 10ml
Sundays ONLY
40% water change.
ALGAE TYPES
Black brush algae (BBA)
Black Brush Algae or lovingly known as BBA in the community forums that you may visit or frequent. Combating BBA is quite a painstaking event. Firstly you will need to trim off infected leaves or parts of the plant and secondly, you’ll need to ensure you get the magical number for your CO2 concentration, the 30PPM mark. Flow rates should also be good to disperse your CO2 as efficiently as possible throughout the entire tank. There are cases of fellow scapers who actually use Seachem Excel to “burn” the BBA, however at the risk of your fauna. (Excel is a liquidized CO2 reagent sold at many LFS and ‘happens’ to cause BBA to turn white and drop off – this of course, is not the recommended method to kill off or rid your tank of BBA.) Alternatively, you can yank the plant out, and soak it in a 1 part chlorine to 20 parts water. The BBA will turn white and can then be easily removed. Please ensure that after trying this out you soak your plants in a anti-chlorine solution. (I won’t be held responsible for your fauna’s death if you fail to read this.)
Blue-green algae (BGA)
Blue green algae, also known as BGA/slime-algae is not actually classfied under the algae family but is more of a cynobacteria. Mechanically cleaning BGA up is almost impossible as it breaks apart upon contact which will eventually lead to more areas of ‘infection’.BGA spreads not only fast but deprives your flora from oxygen and if left to over-run your tank, it will end up killing all your flora & fauna. There are two known ways to rid your tank of BGA, one method is by using Erythromycin which you can get from your general practioner. Personally I have not tried this but heard it works however if you should use erythromycin, one thing you should take note is that it might end up affecting your beneficial bacteria colony which will “reset” your tank.
Another proven method that I personally have tried is the “black-out” method. Not only is this free but it works.
Follow these simple steps.
1. Do a manual clean up of your tank and siphon as much BGA you can.
2. Clean your filters.
3. Drop an airstone in the tank
4. Cover up your tank entirely (make sure you don’t peek or any form of lighting is made available to the tank)
5. Leave the tank the way it is, covered up for 3 days.
6. After day 3, do a 50% water change and clean filters.
7. Keep your NO3 up to at least 30ppm.
Brown algae
The common brown algae, evident in new setups, this algae is the easiest to handle, normally grows on your glass you can wipe this off easily and will disappear after a wipe & water-change. If its growing on your leaves, just rub it off using your fingers. It is also said that if your tank has too much iron (Fe) in it, brown algae tends to form easily. The brown algae will disappear over time as your tank matures.
Green brush algae (GBA)
Similar to its “cousin” the BBA, this is a lesser common variant but equally sturbbon. The procedure of its removal would be exactly the same for the BBA, however in certain scapes, the GBA is grown on driftwoods/rocks & bogwoods on purpose to stimulate a more natural look to the scape. Likewise, this is due to poor CO2 management and poor flow rates. This can also be dealt with using the Seachen Excel burn method, however as mentioned earlier, is not recommended.
Green dust algae (GDA)
Green dust algae is actually a welcomed visitor to a tank especially for rock scape designs. Giving the rock a natural speckled coating. GDA can also grow on your glass, wiping it off will not be enough to get rid of the GDA, running a UV light or lowering your light source (most probable reason why green dust is evident is due to strong lighting) with a large water change will help get rid of the GDA.
Green water (GW)
Green water or in this case, an algae bloom happens to newly setup tanks. This happens normally if the ‘cloudy’ effect of your tank hits past day 10 after its initial setup. Green water is a little difficult to remove once it establishes itself in a tank. Normally diatom filters and UV sterilizers are employed to get rid of the GW effect, however personally I have found that the blackout method used in the BGA problem helps clear up the GW effectively and thereafter, reducing the lighting intensity and increasing it a bit at a time.
Green spot algae (GSA)
Green spot algae grows on glass to plants. Normally if on plants, somehow it chooses to grow on the slower growing plants, for example, nanas & java ferns. Affected leaves should be cut and disposed off, if grown on glass, using a razor blade or credit card can effectively remove the GSA. GSA is normally due to low phosphate (KH2PO4) levels in the tank. Increasing the phosphate levels slightly will help reduce the chance of GSA to appear.
Hair algae
This algae is normally found growing within your mosses and can take over the tank in a few days. The algae can be removed manually using a toothbrush and twirling it off. However, they will grow back unless conditions are improved. Reducing the lighting levels and nutrient levels can help to keep the hair algae down and of course SAEs, yamato shrimps have the hair algae for ‘breakfast’.
Staghorn algae
Staghorn algae normally grows in a thick clump at a designated area and is a slow grower. If allowed to grow, this will soon form a carpet of staghorn algae. Manually removing this will be the only choice at the moment and of course, improving your tanks’ conditions. Algae eaters relish on staghorn algae as well.
DISCLAIMER: IMAGES COURTESY OF AQUATICQUOTIENT.COM
Conclusion…
Having algae in your planted tank is part and parcel of a learning process most aquascapers would have to go through and learning how to control and promote good plant growth in your tank is the key to your success. Personally it took me about a year to understand what my plants and tank need. Another key-point to remember is that algae clean-up crews such as siamese algae eaters and yamato shrimps can only do “that” much and the rest lies in your hands. The best form of an algaecide for your tank would equate to healthy growing plants.If you have feedback that you would like to provide to me, kindly leave a comment. I will be progessively updating this portion and new material will be added soon as well.
